How to Lay a Gravel Driveway
A gravel driveway is mostly digging and spreading — but the difference between a driveway that lasts and one that turns to mud is the edging, the membrane and the depth of stone.
What you need
A spade and wheelbarrow (or a mini digger for a big driveway), a tape measure, a rake, a spirit level, a weed membrane, timber or stone edging, a sub-base of crushed stone and the gravel itself — usually 20 mm angular stone, which locks together instead of rolling under tyres.
Step 1 — Check what is underground, then dig out
Before you dig, check for underground cables and pipes — in the US call 811, in the UK use LinesearchbeforeUdig, and anywhere else ask your local utility. Then dig out the driveway to the depth of the sub-base plus the gravel: typically 150 mm of sub-base and 50–75 mm of gravel. The sides must be straight, because the edging follows them.
Step 2 — Lay the membrane and the edging
Lay a weed membrane over the dug-out area and pin it down — it stops the gravel sinking into the soil and weeds coming up. Fit the edging along both sides and fix it firmly: without edging, gravel migrates onto the lawn and the path within a month.
Step 3 — Sub-base, then gravel
Spread the sub-base (crushed stone) and compact it — a plate compactor hired for the day is worth it. Then spread the gravel in layers, raking it level, to a depth of about 50–75 mm. Thinner than that and tyres push through to the sub-base; thicker and the gravel moves underfoot.
Drainage and fall
Gravel is permeable, so rain soaks through it instead of running off — one reason it is popular for front drives. Even so, give the driveway a slight fall away from the house so water does not sit against the walls, and keep the finished level below the damp-proof course. If the ground is heavy clay and water already pools there, improve the drainage first: a gravel drive laid over a puddle is still a puddle.
Worked example
A driveway 20 ft × 10 ft with gravel 3 in deep is 50 ft³ (1.42 m³, or 1.85 yd³). Add 10% wastage: 55 ft³ (1.56 m³, or 2.04 yd³), which weighs 2.49 tonnes (2.75 US tons). Order by the cubic yard or by the tonne — whichever your supplier uses — and those are exactly the numbers the gravel calculator gives you.
Common mistakes
- No edging. Gravel without edging spreads everywhere. Fit the edging first, not as an afterthought.
- Skipping the membrane. Without it the gravel sinks into the soil and weeds grow through within a season.
- Too thin. Less than 50 mm of gravel and tyres cut through to the sub-base. Depth is not where to save money.
Safety
Check for underground utilities before you dig — hitting a cable or gas pipe is dangerous and expensive. Gravel is heavy: lift with your knees and take barrow-loads you can control. If the driveway crosses a public footpath or drains into the road, check your local rules first — some areas require planning permission or a dropped kerb.
Try these calculators
- Gravel Calculator — volume and weight for any area and depth.
- Concrete Driveway Calculator — concrete volume for a driveway slab.
- Driveway Calculator — area and material for a driveway by surface.
More DIY guides
Estimates only. Guides and calculators on this site are for planning. Measure twice, confirm quantities on the packaging you buy, and follow the manufacturer's instructions. See the disclaimer.